National Trust.
You have all heard of “Back to Back” housing, with its connotations of urban slums. But what exactly is it, and what were the layouts like? To find out, you really have to go see some of the real thing. Such housing once existed in vast numbers, but today hardly any remains.
The examples preserved by the National Trust face onto a street and courtyard in central Birmingham. Three pairs of back-to-backs on Inge Street adjoin a terrace of five blind-back houses on Hurst Street. These tenements make up the north and east sides of the inner court. The yard contains two wash-houses and the outside toilets. Four back-to-backs have been fitted out to show what life was like here at different dates.
Until I actually saw the back-to-backs I had only a hazy idea of what they were like. These were cramped 3-room dwellings just one room wide and one room deep, extending over three floors, plus attic, with no toilet or bathroom. Everything was poor, shabby or peeling, and the construction, with walls a single brick thick, was cheap and flimsy. Up to 8 or 10 people crammed into each dwelling. Construction of such buildings was banned from 1876, but some were still lived in nearly a century later.
Today the NT have knocked through some openings to convert four cramped dwellings into a ‘tour’ but you are still strongly advised to book your conducted tour well in advance. Inge Street is within walking distance of Birmingham New Street rail station. This isn’t a prime commercial area, and when I visited, it looked like free on-street parking might be available for those totally determined to drive.
After visiting here, you might be interested in the covered market (nearby) the municipal art gallery (walk or bus ride) or the Jewellery Quarter (bus ride).