Speke Hall, Liverpool

Speke Hall South front
National Trust.
Speke Hall was built in stages during the sixteenth century by the Norris family, and now comprises four timber-framed ranges built around a central courtyard. The south-eastern corner with the Great Hall appears to be the earliest part, and the east range, containing the kitchen and scullery, is the latest.
The house later was neglected, and when purchased by Richard Watt in 1795 it appears to have been derelict, with the west wing in complete decay. A full restoration was not carried out until the 1850’s, and this gave the interiors their present antiquarian character. William Morris wallpapers were put up in various rooms. The Tudor-style furniture was mostly introduced in the 19th century.
The double-height Great Hall is of irregular shape and contains two fireplaces and elaborate wooden panelling and bay windows. The Great Parlour has an ornate plaster ceiling, and a large fireplace with above it carved wood panels representing William Norris II with his two wives and nineteen children. At the other end of the room is a massive oak buffet containing pieces of older carving.
The Blue Drawing Room was fitted out in the 17th century. It is presently decorated with William Morris wallpaper, and furnished with a suite of Louis XV style furniture purchased in the 19th century. There are several bedrooms on display. The arrangement of the kitchen and scullery dates from the Victorian renovations of around 1855, and the present cooking range was installed about 1910.
There are formal gardens around the house (mainly behind to the South) and a substantial park with woods, a kitchen garden and orchard, maze and visitor block (formerly a farm).

The black and white exterior of the house is striking, and the interiors contain many features and furnishings of interest. Outside, one can enjoy the formal gardens and walk in the wider grounds, which form an oasis of green in an area which today is heavily industrialised, with the airport a few hundred yards away. The River Mersey should be visible from the south edge of the grounds. (Click on images to enlarge)

Speke courtyard wall
Courtyard
North Front, Speke
North Front
Speke Hall South front
South Front

Chester city, Cheshire

Chester7504
The city of Chester seems to be regarded as a historic attraction in its own right.
The centre of Chester is built on top of the site of a large Roman fort, and some of the present-day streets follow the line of streets in the Roman fort. Some Roman wall and tower foundations are still visible in places. The walls standing today enclosed the Saxon and Norman town, and partly follow the line of the Roman walls (fort perimeter). It is possible to walk around the circuit of the walls and cross above various gateways.
There are many interesting old buildings, including about 28 grade I listed structures. Some of the black and white half-timbered buildings have medieval timber frames but were given new replica fronts in the Victorian period, and others are Victorian, part of the “black and white revival”. In this part of the city, the famous “Rows” comprise shopping arcades on two levels.
The Victorian Gothic Revival town hall is worth a look. In Eastgate, the Eastgate Clock is much photographed.
Many flat areas outside the medieval walls, such as the Roodee racecourse, site of an ancient port, were formerly water.
There is a museum (free) in Grosvenor Street which is worth a visit if you are interested in the city’s history.
The partially excavated Roman Amphitheatre in Vicars Lane is easily found.
The old walls are pierced by a railway line and by a 1960’s bypass, proving that at certain times in the past the city’s heritage was little valued. In the north-west corner one can see canal, road and rail within a few yards of each other.

My coach tour also visited the village of Eccleston near Chester, part of the Duke of Westminster’s estates. Here the cottage architecture and the church (consecrated 1900), which contains several memorials to Dukes of Westminster are of interest.

Former car factory
Former car factory

Section of ancient wall
Ancient wall
Eccleston church interior
Eccleston church
Eccleston house
Eccleston house
Chester Rows (2-floor galleries)
Chester Rows
Victorian gothic town hall
Town Hall

Alderley Edge, Cheshire

Alderley Edge is famous for the sandstone ridge above the town, which can be visited by parking in the National Trust’s useful but easy-to-miss car park and walking one or more of the marked trails. The views apparently used to be more open, with the Edge being bare until the 18th century, but now the ridge is quite wooded, and good views over the Cheshire plain and to the hills of the Peak District can be had only from a few vantage points.
The Edge is associated with legends, the best known one being about a farmer meeting a wizard, and also with the writer Alan Garner and his novels, some of which are set in the surrounding country. The woods contain the remains of many old mines. Mining for copper and other metals went on in the area from prehistoric times to the 20th century, and there are many old relics. A stone circle however was apparently built in Victorian times.
From the town, go up the High Street and take the left uphill fork just before the large half-timbered pub on the right.
I walked around one of the trails to the edge of the woods and saw some distant hills.

Turn left at this pub for the Edge
Turn left here for the Edge

Alderley Edge, the town, lies in one of the most sought-after residential districts in Britain. If you have to spend some time there, you could patronise one of the smart cafes and shops etc in the High Street, in hopes of spotting some famous footballer or soap star, or you could wander around the side streets spotting elegant Victorian villas lurking behind exotic flowering trees. There are one or two buildings in the High Street that might be old, including the Barclays Bank and a large pub with lots of external wood.

Tatton Park, Cheshire

Tatton South FrontNational Trust.
Tatton Park is a complete historic estate with the Neo-Classical mansion, a Tudor Old hall, 50 acres of landscaped gardens, a working farm and over 1000 acres of deer park. It was owned for hundreds of years by the Egerton family. The core of the present mansion was completed around 1716. The mansion was then extensively altered in the fashionable Neo-Classical style in two stages between 1780 and 1813, by the architects Samuel Wyatt and his nephew Lewis Wyatt.
The Mansion is richly furnished and has a valuable collection of paintings and books. In the Library, facsimiles are displayed of one or two of the more interesting volumes, including the Wallington Manuscript facsimile (a diary of the Civil War period which makes very interesting reading with its enthusiastic descriptions of executions and civil warfare).

The Gardens have many areas with flowering trees etc, several large ponds, a Japanese garden (seen from perimeter), Italian Garden, 6 acre kitchen garden, tropical and temperate conservatories.

When I visited, I enjoyed an interesting special tour conducted by two “servants” which started at 10.30 am. Then I visited the gardens (large and impressive) then made a free-flow visit to house. Total 4.5 hours. (Click on images below to enlarge)

Tatton Fern House interior
Fern House
Tatton Italian Garden
Italian Garden
Tatton Shrubs
Shrubs
Tatton Japanese Garden
Japanese Garden
Stairwell ceiling, Tatton
Stairwell ceiling
Urn at staircase
Urn
Tea House, Japanese Gdn
Tea House
Tatton Drawing Room
Drawing Room
Maurice Egerton Exhibition Room
Exhibition Room

Lyme Park, Cheshire

Lyme Park - North Front
National Trust.
Lyme Park has been gradually developed since the Middle Ages. It was largely rebuilt during the reign of Elizabeth I, and the centre of the north front dates from this period. The Palladian courtyard, South front and West front date from the 18th century, and further alterations, mainly affecting the interiors, were carried out by the architect Lewis Wyatt in the 19th century. Wyatt altered floor levels, access routes and the functions of many of the principal rooms as well as changing the decor.
Internally, the house has a generally Jacobean aspect. Some rooms, like the Drawing Room, have survived from the Jacobean period with minor alterations, while others have been reworked, while still being fitted out in a Jacobean style.
The house was owned by the Legh family from the Middle Ages till 1946.
On the first floor, many of the principal rooms are on display, while on the second floor, the Long Gallery and some other rooms can be seen. A tour can take around 2 hours.
The gardens, mostly to the south, are very fine, with a lake and large changes of level. The Dutch formal garden seen from far above is particularly impressive. There is also a substantial park (not seen).
Photography of the interior of the house is not permitted, but I took some pictures of the gardens (click on images to enlarge).

Dutch garden from above
Dutch Garden
Dutch Garden from above
Dutch garden
South Front from gardens across lake
South front
Informal garden with lake & house
Informal gardens
"Killtime" Ravine Garden
Ravine

Quarry Bank Mill, Cheshire

Quarry Bank Mill National Trust.
The Mill was started in the 18th century and remained in the ownership of the Greg family for five generations. The business closed in the 1950’s. The workers, housed nearby, included children as young as nine, and unpaid pauper apprentices. The cotton was cheap because it was produced by slaves in the southern United States. The mill was powered by water-wheels, and later by steam.
The original mill building contains exhibitions and representative old spinning and weaving machines, which can be seen running (noisy!). The machines were originally powered by water or steam power (latterly electricity), and in the lower levels a working restored water wheel and some working steam engines can be seen. It’s interesting to see what impact the production of cotton cloth had (social change, industrialisation, riots) and what ingenuity went into producing a piece of cloth.
Beyond the mill, the Quarry Bank garden and kitchen garden can be seen. Further afield are the Apprentice House and the Styal Village (not seen).
This is an interesting site, and a proper visit will occupy about half a day.

Spinning machine
Spinning machine
Quarry Bank spinning machine
Spinning machine
Quarry Bank Looms
Looms